July 12, 2024, edited by Cecilia Mariani
In recent years, there has been increasing talk of a difficult, beautiful trek that is becoming more and more popular. One of the most beautiful in our country, but it has nothing to do with the Alps. Instead, by a twist of fate, it runs along the sea, along one of the most spectacular stretches of our peninsula's coastline. Yes, we are talking about Sardinia, we are talking about the Selvaggio Blu.
At 40 km long, it crosses the Baunei coast, from Pedra Longa to Cala Sisine, following the old paths used by Supramonte shepherds to move their flocks. There are no refuges along the route, except for a few emergency shelters, and no roads, so anyone who decides to undertake it does so almost entirely independently. It is certainly not a route for everyone: it requires a considerable level of both physical and technical preparation, and perhaps that is why it remains one of the most sought-after itineraries.
It is one of those few routes in Italy that still makes you think of true adventure, and that is precisely one of the reasons that prompted two friends, Paolo Mascaretti and Mountain Guide Fabrizio Manoni, to choose it as the setting for their project. A different Selvaggio Blu, not a new one, not more difficult, but a journey through the history of climbing and Sardinian culture. An adventure without the pursuit of records, without opening new routes, but simply the realization of a long-held dream and project.
We asked Paolo and Fabrizio to tell us about their journey, and this article is the result. Here is Selvaggio Blu 2.0, enjoy the read.
The participants
The two protagonists of this story are long-time friends and climbing partners. Fabrizio Manoni, known to his friends as “Manetta,” is a Mountain Guide in the Macugnaga group and an experienced mountaineer with over 30 years of experience. Paolo Mascaretti, on the other hand, is a consultant by day and an amateur mountaineer in his spare time. Initially Fabrizio's student, the two later became friends and began climbing together, often tied together at opposite ends of the same rope.
The project
When Fabrizio first started thinking about this project, he had no choice but to propose it to his friend, who welcomed it with great enthusiasm. The idea was to complete the Selvaggio Blu along its original route while also climbing some of the finest multi-pitch routes along the way. Five days of trekking and climbing in one of Sardinia's most evocative settings, combining the history of climbing with Sardinian culture and tradition. An adventure within everyone's reach, far from the pursuit of records and extreme challenges, but simply a journey through the beauty of the Baunei coast.
An adventure born from the need to experience mountaineering as a journey rather than a performance—a journey through places, people, and cultures. The culture of climbing, but also that of the shepherds who built the paths and walkways that make up the Selvaggio Blu. A journey of discovery into the hardships of these shepherds' lives and work.
It was a project Fabrizio had been thinking about for a long time, but the two decided to undertake it somewhat spontaneously. “We didn't know whether something like this had ever been done before, and we weren't particularly interested,” Fabrizio says. “We had a lot of doubts; we didn't know whether we would be able to complete the route or if it would prove too difficult.” But that is also part of the beauty of adventure, so they decided to go.
The journey
Paolo and Fabrizio followed the classic Selvaggio Blu route, starting from Pedra Longa and ending at Cala Sisine. They had a plan, but, like any adventure worth its salt, it required a certain level of flexibility. “We had to be extremely flexible,” Fabrizio recalls, “changing our itinerary when the wind was too strong. Mental flexibility is essential in this kind of undertaking; otherwise, failure is guaranteed.” The two were also able to rely on the help of Explorando Supramonte with logistics, including the transport of food and equipment for the night at the end of each stage.
Every day, Paolo and Fabrizio hiked and climbed, combining a stage of the Selvaggio Blu with a climbing route along the way. The result was five days of pure adventure—tough but rewarding, beautiful. Actually, it was six days, but we'll talk about that later. Here are the stages and climbing routes undertaken by the two friends:
Day 1 Stage: from Pedra Longa to Cuile deus Piggius
Route: Saratoga - Sa Costa e S’Aidu
Climbing length: 410m
Exposure: East Maximum grade: 6b+
Required difficulty: 6a+
Day 2 Stage: from Cuile deus Piggius to Porto Pedrosu
Route: Crisalis by Grenke - Punta Giradili
Climbing length: 550m
Exposure: South-East
Maximum grade: 7a+
Required difficulty: 6a+
Day 3 Stage: from Porto Pedrosu to Agriturismo Cooperativa Goloritzé
Route: Soffio del Baco - Aguglia, Goloritze
Climbing length: 150m
Exposure: West
Maximum grade: 7a
Required difficulty: 6b
Day 4 Stage: from Agriturismo Cooperativa Goloritzé to Cala Biriala
Route: none
Day 5 Stage: from Cala Biriala to Cala Sisine
Route: Fedeli alla linea - Punta Plummare (climbed the next day)
Climbing length: 500m
Exposure: South-East
Maximum grade: 6c+
Required difficulty: 6c+
For a total of 45 pitches in 6 days: 5 days of Selvaggio Blu plus 1 day to complete Fedeli alla Linea. But why one extra day?
Fedeli alla linea
As already mentioned, every adventure can have its unexpected challenges. And just when the two thought they were almost at the end of their undertaking, they had to overcome one final obstacle. The plan for the fifth day was to climb Fedeli alla linea, a climbing route opened by Enzo Lecis in the early 2000s, but, unable to find the start of the route and with sunset dangerously approaching, they decided to abandon it. Once they reached Cala Sisine, however, they were overcome with disappointment: it would be a shame for it to end like this, after months of preparation and five days of hard work, just one step away from completing their dream. They slept on it, and sleep brings clarity: the next day they decided to change their return flight to retrace their steps and make another attempt.
They returned to the base of the route, this time by boat, braving a rough and far from inviting sea. They found it and began to climb, but they were faced with yet another surprise: the rock was terrible, but they decided to push on anyway. The route was very dangerous and the steel of the bolts had been corroded by the salt spray, but the two did not stop. If they had followed their better judgment, they would not have hesitated to turn back, but stubbornness won out and they pushed on to the end. Once they reached almost the top, they realized that the route had never been completed and perhaps never even repeated. But it was done—they had completed their project, and all that remained was to enjoy the moment.
Tips for those who want to repeat the experience
“The beauty of this adventure is that it can be modified, personalized, and anyone who wants to repeat it can make it their own, in one way or another.” Fabrizio replies when I ask him if he has any advice for anyone who wants to repeat the adventure. The climbing grades can be increased, for example, or lowered, as far as possible, to make it more accessible. The route undertaken by Paolo and Fabrizio requires physical preparation and the ability to climb at least 6c (6b if Fedeli alla Linea is excluded).
As for logistics, it is possible to do everything independently, with the only problem being drinking water: it is not always possible to find it along the route. Alternatively, it is possible to arrange things with one of the two organizations that offer logistics and transport along the Selvaggio Blu, namely Explorando Supramonte and the Cooperativa Goloritzé. It is possible to arrange the transport of food and equipment for the night with them, so that you only have to carry the bare essentials and lighten the weight of your backpack as much as possible.
Another essential thing is the help of an app with the .gpx track of the route. The route itself is not marked, there are very few blue trail markers, mostly faded, and a few cairns. The itinerary has truly been left wild, and it is up to everyone to know how to orient themselves, and that is also part of its beauty.
Finally, but no less importantly, choose the time of year with the fewest people, if possible. Spring is ideal, while in autumn it is becoming increasingly popular. And obviously find the right people to share the adventure with. Oh, and one last thing: do not repeat Fedeli alla Linea!